Sunday, May 31, 2009

La Barbacoa

I think my stomach has finally decided to rest. Yesterday was a pretty awful (although not surprising) day of adjustment to Honduras cuisine, which involved lying on the couch and holding my belly in pain between numerous trips to the bathroom. It was miserable. Fortunately, I´m feeling better this morning, although I´m not quite sure if I´m up for going to a barbecue with Debbies boyfriend Oscar and his friends. Apparently at 11am people are going to head over to someone´s house just outside of town to hang out and grill some food. None of the gringos seem to know many details about the barbecue - what the occasion is, who´s all going, etc. - but by now I´ve already learned that this is a common theme.

10:30am
Debbie calls Oscar to see what´s going on. Oscar says we probably won´t be able to leave at 11, but he doesn´t say why. When Debbie asks him, he acts a little weird and just tells her everything´s cool, not to worry.

11:00am
Debbie gets Oscar back on the phone to figure out what´s going on. Oscar says Levi´s the only one who knows the whole plan, so Debbie calls Levi. Levi, however, stayed out until 7am this morning and is still sleeping. After a round of confusing phone calls to figure out what to do, it´s decided to push everything back until 12:30 to give people a chance to recover. I think I actually might feel better by then, so I´m happy with the decision. We´ll chill for another 2 hours, everyone will meet up here at 12:30, and then we´ll head out. Cool.

12:30pm
Debbie gets Levi on the phone, who says he´s on his way and he´ll be right over. Debbie, Megan, Oscar and I are sitting in the apartment dressed and ready to go, just waiting. Oscar suddenly gets up and leaves, without explanation.

1:00pm
Levi still hasn´t shown up, but when we call him he continues to claim he´s on his way (even though he only lives 5 minutes away).

1:15pm
Levi, Oscar, and Edwin show up at the apartment with a plastic grocery bag full of meet. Now we´re waiting downstairs on the sidewalk just outside the apartment building. Debbie tries to ask the Hondurans what´s going on, when are we going to go, but they just tell her to relax, chill, not to worry. They seem to be acting super sketchy about why we haven´t left yet. Finally Levi tells us that we´re waiting for their friend Sergio, who has the truck, to get off work. Why this was too hard to tell us in the first place I have no idea. But even now, we still don´t know who we´re going to meet up with or exactly when we´re going to leave.

John walks by and says he´d like to come, but doesn´t want to just stand around and wait. He asks us to call him when everyone is ready.

2:00pm
Sergio finally shows up 3 hours after the initial projected start time and we all pile into the back of his pickup truck and head on our way. No one calls John.

2:20pm
We arrive at a house on a dirt road just a little outside of town. It soon becomes aparent that we´re not meeting anyone here - it´s just the fearsome foursome (Oscar, Levi, Fernando, and Edwin) plus Sergio and us gringos sitting here at a house that is apparently Sergio´s second house (he also owns one right in Juti). So we waited 3 hours and drove 20 minutes to hang out with the same people we hang out with every day in a house identical to all the other houses we´ve hung out at.

There´s some discusson and some movement, and then Sergio and Edwin hop back in the truck and take off. They´re going back to pick up John and the other teachers (who could have easily fit in the truck when we came the first time). I´m learning new lessons about efficiency every day.

3:00pm
Levi and Sergio arrive back with all the other teachers in the truck, and we finally start to barbecue. All in all, aside from the ridiculous delay in getting started, we had a great time just hanging out, eating and talking. Not very diifferent from the usual, but we got to end this evening with a sweet ride in the back of Sergio´s truck, cruising down the highway with the cool night breeze rushing past us, Fernando and Edwin yelling "Tópelo, tópelo!" to encourage Sergio to go even faster. We had 6 guys crammed in the back amidst a stack of plastic chairs, a guitar, and a gril, so their wasn´t a lot of space to brace yourself for turns in the road. The cargo kept shifting and bumping into everybody, and at one point the wind whipped one of the plastic chairs so hard it flew off the stack and would have flown off the back of the truck had Fernando not caught it. Maybe not the safest way to travel, but definitely one of the most fun.

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Juti, Juti!

Juticalpa is perfect. It reminds me a lot of Matagalpa in Nicaragua. Small enough to have a community feel, where everybody knows everybody, small enough to walk from one end of town to the other in 15 - 20 minues but big enough that you can always find a new nook or cranny to explore. There are pulperias (small convenience stores) at every corner where you can buy fresco, tajaditas (fried plantain chips), and sometimes hot baleadas.

Only about half the roads are paved, the rest varying between dirt, gravel, or cobblestone, but they're all lined with the brightly colored buildings of buisnesses or homes, each a unique architectural feat. Horses and cows do wander the streets of Juti - often at their leisure, occasionally at the command of a gaucho. Olancho (the state in which Juti is located) is known for its guns-slinging cowboys, and there are some establishments where the dress code not only requires a cowboy hat and boots, but a pistol as well. If that makes you nervous, don´t worry - there are plenty of police hanging out on street corners watching everything go down while wielding enormous shotguns (Clearly, handguns would not suffice in Olancho). The police may be known for just looking on with everyone else during a rare lawless ruckus rather than engaging, but hey, at least they´re there with their shotguns for moral support.

Being a gringo makes it impossible to walk down the street without attracting attention, but at least I´m not a gringa. Meg and her American female friends constantly receive a barrage of catcalls from Honduran men - everything from kissing noises to "Oy mi amor!" to "I need your kiss!" While I have had the occasional kissing noise directed at me and have been hailed with "E, gringo!", most unsolicited comments from strangers are more innocent: kids saying hello or goodbye in English. Although ever so often I´ll receive a peeved look from a store owner if I´m butchering Spanish, overall my reception has been very warm. All Meg´s Honduran friends have been happy to meet me and accepted me right away as if I were their friend already.

Tonight Meg invited me to have dinner with one of her students´ families, Saskia. We arrived early enough to help cook - I was excited to learn how to prepare baleadas so I´ll be able to make them back home in the States. I made a decision to temporarily lift the restrictions of my vegan diet while I´m in Central America because it would be almost impossible to get adequate nutrition without eating dairy and egg products. Also, many of the dairy and egg products seem to be produced in more of a free-range, family farm style rather than a factory farm style, which doesn´t create an environment of intense suffering for the animals

Baleadas are very simple, but very delicious. They´re just flour tortillas with beans, mantequilla (not butter, but rather a liquidy sour cream type deal), cheese, avocado, and eggs. By the time we had arrived, the beans were already made, so Meg started cooking the ggs while I helped with the tortillas. We mixed wheat flour, baking soda, salt, and a little water until we got a nice, thick doughy consistency. Then we made 20 golf ball sized balls of dough. To turn the balls into tortillas you put a little oil on a plate, then place the dough ball on the plate and just push down on the edges in a circular motion until eventually the tortilla is flat and round.

To cook it, our hosts use a thin, flat metal disk that they placed over one of the stove elements, and cooked each tortilla individually. Moving the tortilla over to the pan was hard enough because they´re supposed to be as close to a perfect circle as possible, but their shape changes the second you pick them up. My first few attempts resulted in amoeba shaped tortillas, which roused hearty laughter from Saskia´s mom and aunt. That´s the great thing about this culture - If you can laugh a yourself, you´ll make friends very easily. Rather than demand perfection and put pressure on those who fall short, Olanchanos prefer to delight in the humor that comes from life´s natural imperfections.

Once the tortilla is successfully placed on the cooking surface, you wait, flip it once, wait, and then you´re done. The trick, of course, is to know when to turn it. Josmarie, Saskia´s aunt, insisted that the color change of the dough indicates when the tortilla needs to be flipped. Try as I might, I couldn´t for the life of me see a consistent pattern in when Josmarie was flipping the tortillas. They looked like a different color every time. When it was my turn to flip, Josmarie made me use a knife to raise an edge of the tortilla, then flip it with my hands rather than using a spatula (why? I don´t know - the spatula seemed to work just fine). After watching the first side of the tortilla cook I would ask her, "ya?" which literally means "already?" to which she would either reply "ya" or "falta" (which literally means "it´s missing something."

I noticed that the first side of the tortilla seemed to cook significantly faster than the second side, which didn´t seem to make any sense. The second side is already partly warm by the time it hits the pan, so shouldn´t it cook faster? After confirming my observation about the first side cooking faster with Josmarie, I asked her why this was true. "Porque sí," she replied. "Just because." This commonly used phrase has the same sentiment as when a parent says "because I said so" to a child, but "porque sí"also has a hint of humor, a self-awareness about it´s dismissive tone. Then again, maybe gringoes inevitably hear this response when we ask ridiculous questions that Hondurans know better than to ask.

Either way, the baleadas were absoutely delicious, and it was really incredible to be received so warmly and treated as a close friend right away. I think I´m going to like it here.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Acostumbrarme a una aventura nueva

Do you ever get that "Oh shit!" feeling when you've committed to do something that you were sure about but when the day arrives to actually do it you start to wonder what the heck you were thinking? There was a moment of panic as my plane circled in the air over the sprawling mess of Tegucigalpa below. Why did I just get on a flight to another country without any guidebooks and without any plans whatsoever? All I had was a printout of some vague directions to navigate from the airport at Tegus to meet my one contact in all of Central America, and the idea of somehow becoming fluent in Spanish. In an instant my decision to come seemed downright foolish, and the mass of houses below started to seem completely unmanageable.

Tegus is a sharp contrast from Miami, where I had departed from only two hours ago. I'm sure I must have visited Miami as a kid, but I don't remember looking out the plane window to such a puzzling sight below. For a moment it almost seemed as if I was looking at residential areas constructed out of Legos; the impeccably engineered developments had the same right-angle effect as the children's building blocks. Along the shore, not only did the rows of houses extend out in perfect rectangles, but there were rectangular inlets of water between each row. The manicured sea scape looked like it had been produced in the sterile chambers of a bright white factory and then gently plopped over the existing landscape, bolted down like plates of sheet metal to cover the earth beneath. It was too perfect, too artificial to believe that wild, virgin land ever existed in the place now occupied by a dramatic feat of engineering. I marveled at man's complete mastery over the earth, then turned back to my book - this was not my destination, nor was I really interested in stopping there. I dozed off, and awoke a few hours later to a very different image.

I've been to Nicaragua before, so seeing a developing country isn't shocking to me, but putting Tegus side by side with Miami makes you wonder if you've landed in another planet with completely different laws of physics and of the environment. Where in Miami it's clear that man is the master of the earth, in Tegus the land dominates everything man-made. Roads are haphazardly strewn throughout the terrain, conforming to the curves of changes in elevation rather than carving out the hills to fit a grid like in many U.S. cities. Unrepaired cracks snake across concrete streets and the tiled blocks of the narrow sidewalks jut out at obtuse angles as encroaching tree roots creep below. Even newly painted walls soon develop cracks due to shifting forces underneath the foundation. It's as if nature is mocking man's attempt to master her.

* * *

I'm nervous as I step off the plane, but now I'm just thinking about the logistics of getting to my destination. I have to take a cab to a bus station, and then a bus from Tegus to Juticalpa. Sounds simple enough, but my tongue feels sluggish in my mouth, the once familiar words now sounding like mush, and I'm embarrassed to speak. I feel like an idiot...an impostor. My first attempt to ask for a location where I can catch a taxi is an utter failure, so I retreat to Aunt Annie's pretzel stand to console myself with a few bottles of cold water and regroup. The cashier at Aunt Annie's seems nice enough, so I ask him for directions. I can't understand a word he's saying. This is not going well!

The first floor of the airport seems devoid of taxi signs, so I decide to try upstairs. The Aunt Annie's cashier seems puzzles as he watches me ascend the escalator, and I see why immediately - the only thing at the top of the stairs is a McDonald's and a huge window looking out toward the runway. Clearly not the right place. I pretend to browse for something so I don't look entirely out of place, then I go back downstairs after a few minutes.

I finally decide to just walk outside and try to find a cab on my own. As soon as I cross the threshold, a man in a yellow golf shirt approaches me and asks if I want a taxi. How the heck could I have possibly made such an easy thing so difficult? After haggling for a minute over the price (he charged me 4 dollars more than Meg said he should), I hop in and I'm on my way.

My Spanish is still choppy, but I can understand nearly everything the driver is saying. Suddenly I'm in my element. As we navigate the chaotic streets of Tegus, the crowded, noisy chaos of a city teetering on the edge is now energizing. The driver and I crack jokes at all the taxis from a competing company that we see broken down on the side of the road. His laughter quickly transmutes into a snarl as he lays on the horn to convey his frustration to the slow moving motorbike in front of us. Not yet satisfied that they got the message, he slams on the gas to accelerate until we're neck and neck with the motorbike, and then starts veering toward the biker as if to drive him off the road. To my relief, he turns the wheel back to the right only inches from colliding with the motorbike.

I look around and realize my cabbie's behavior is far from out of the ordinary. It soon becomes clear that the primary rule of the road is that whoever drives most aggressively gets to make the rules. Stop signs only apply to those who don't have the guts to power through them. Fortunately, it seems there is a protective halo around my taxi, because we make it to the bus station in one piece. My fear and doubt having strangely subsided somewhere along the taxi ride, I bound toward the bus terminal eager to start my new adventure in Juticalpa.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

US Road Trip Timeline

Welcome to my blog! Below is an outline of all the places I've traveled so far, as well as the places I plan on traveling. Some dates have links, which means I wrote a blog post for that day - click on the link to read the post! To see the pictures I've taken on my journey, click here.

Day Date Location Notes
Friday 4/3 Seattle, WA Arrived late, dinner with a friend from High School
Saturday4/4 Seattle, WA Went to Gasworks Park, saw Lake Union, walked along the canal to the Puget Sound, saw the Chittenden locks, Discovery Park
Sunday 4/5 Seattle, WA then drove to Portland Visited OA frosh from Princeton, toured downtown Seattle and Queen Anne
Monday 4/6 Portland, OR Bought an REI tent, went hiking in Washington Park
Tuesday4/7 Portland, OR Made the mother of all GORP
Wednesday4/8 Portland, OR last day with Portland friends
Thursday4/9 On the Road Portland to Crescent City, CA Beautiful drive down I-5 in Oregon. Took a detour at Cave Junction to see the Oregon Caves National Monument. Camped near the beach in Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park
Friday 4/10 Drove to San Francisco, CA Went for a hike in the Redwood National Park - randomly met a guy who went to college with one of my Portland roommates. Drove the amazing Avenue of the Giants through Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Saturday4/11 San Francisco, CA Hiked in the Redwood Regional Park near Berkeley. Dinner at Herbivore vegan restaurant.
Sunday 4/12 San Francisco, CA Castro-style Easter Celebration at Dolores Park! Bike ride through the Mission and downtown to North Beach to watch the sun set over the Golden Gate Bridge. I think I might have poison oak.
Monday 4/13 San Francisco, CA Lunch with an old roommate from Newark, dinner with college friends
Tuesday4/14 Drove to San Simeon, CA Finally tried to address this horrible poison oak rash.Beautiful drive down US-1 along the California Coast. Camped at a state park.
Wednesday4/15 Drove to L.A. (North Hollywood) Met a couple from Estonia and talked about Obama. Saw Elephant Seals! Hike up Runyon Canyon with my sister near Hollywood where you can see all of L.A., from Santa Monica to Hollywood to downtown L.A.
Thursday4/16 Los Angeles, CA Venice Beach to see Ian! Dinner with Ian at the restaurant where my sister serves.
Friday 4/17 Los Angeles, CA Hung out in Old Pasadena. Amazing comedy show in the evening!
Saturday4/18 Los Angeles, CA In bed, in agony from poison oak.
Sunday 4/19 Los Angeles, CA Still in agony from poison oak.
Monday4/20 drove to Las Vegas How to do Vegas for Free
Tuesday 4/21 drove to Snowmass Village, CO Breathtaking drive through Utah. Met a really interesting truck drive in Green River, UT
Wednesday4/22 Snowmass Village, CO Hiked with Dan and then dinner in Aspen
Thursday4/23 drove to Denver, CO lunch at Little Anita's with an amazing girl
Friday 4/24 Denver, CO Hung out with host Mom, dinner and a movie with host sister
Saturday4/25 Denver, CO Met up with former Obama volunteers.I wish I were organizing right now.
Sunday 4/26 on the road to Santa Fe, NM Explore the Plaza and surrounding areas in Santa Fe. Camped at Rancheros campgrounds just outside of Santa Fe
Monday 4/27 around Santa Fe, then drove to Truth or Consequences, NM Visited the Pecos National Monument, Bandelier National Monument, quick visit to Albuquerque, and a little mishap on the road as I drove south along I-25.
Tuesday 4/28 drove to Austin, TX Visited with my Aunt and Uncle
Wednesday4/29 Austin, TX Dinner with my Aunt and Uncle and a good Texas debate about Presidential politics
Thursday4/30 Austin, TX Toured Texas State University at San Marcos where my Uncle is a Vice President, failed attempt at finding a Vegan (or even vegetarian) restaurant in San Marcos and so settled on omnivorous Chinese buffet
Friday 5/1 Dallas, TX and Tulsa, OK Visited Jenny Grumbles at her incredible store, Uptown Country Home, then onward to see Julie Niemi in Tulsa where we rocked out to Wayne "The Train" Hancock at the Crystal Pistol. Slept in my tent in Julie's living room.
Saturday5/2 Little Rock, AR Dinner with my Aunt, Uncle, and cousin
Sunday 5/3 Little Rock, AR Toured Little Rock
Monday 5/4 Memphis, TN, and Birmingham, AL Explored Beale Street and saw the Lorraine Motel in Memphis. Arrived late at Samford University to hang out with a campaign friend.
Tuesday 5/5 Nashville, TN and Dawson Springs, KY Arrived late in Dawson and hung out with Bob, husband of one of my volunteers during the Kentucky Primary
Wednesday5/6 Madisonville, KY Visited my friend Rodney's fish shop, hung out with Bob and Miss Shirley at Miss Shirley's underground home
Thursday5/7 Chicago, IL Went to a rockin Hey Champ Show! (composed, in part, by Jon Marks PU'05 and Pete Dougherty '06
Friday 5/8 Chicago, IL Explored Hyde Park and downtown/Millenium Park with my friend from college, Aiala
Saturday5/9 Racine and Milwaukee, WI Spent a few hours with my grandparents and then went to see Hey Champ in Milwaukee
Sunday 5/10 Racine, WI Cooked Eggs and Bacon for my grandparents (of which I did not partake), planted geraniums for my grandmother, and took them out to the Hobnob restaurant on the lake.
Monday 5/11 Racine, WI Visited my Uncle Jon and spent more time with my grandparents.
Tuesday5/12 South Bend, IN Tried to visit with 3 Obama volunteers but only successfully visited with 1. People (non-students) on Notre Dame's campus are protesting President Obama coming to speak for commencement on the grounds that Obama "supports abortion."
Wednesday5/13 Cincinnati, OH Saw the corpse that Marihelen is dissecting at U Cincinnati Med School!
Thursday5/14 Cincinnati and then drove to Pittsburgh, PA interviewed Marihelen and arrived late in Pittsburgh at Megan and Greg Lapp's house
Friday 5/15 Pittsburgh, PA Party with former Obama volunteers in Pittsburgh!
Saturday5/16 Pittsburgh, PA Recorded a few volunteers' stories, hung out with Megan and Greg Lapp who hosted me when I was in Pittsburgh during the Democratic Primary.
Sunday5/17 Pittsburgh, PA, then drove to Collingswood, NJ Recorded some more of my Obama Volunteers' stories and hit the road to Philly.
Monday5/18 Philadelphia and Collingswood Somehow ended up stuck in a crowd that shuffled me into the stadium at the University of Pennsylvania where I got to see the Commencement Ceremony, including a speech by Google CEO Eric Schmidt. Visited with Princeton Alum David Weiss and ate a sweet potato burrito.
Tuesday5/19 Collingswood, NJ then drove to Roseland, NJ = HOME Relaxing and wonderful to be home, but as always, home falls short of the idealized fantasy that I dream up when I'm away.
Wednesday5/27 Flying to Honduras! -

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Through a New Lens

On August 16th, 1918, Marvin Earl Welfel was born to George and Anna Marie Welfel in Racine, Wisconsin. His father George was born in Germany and had immigrated to the United States as a child. Like many European immigrants, he started working in the brickyard making bricks. His method of stomping down the clay to pack it into rectangles earned him the name “Clay Feet.” At the time Marve was born, though, he was working as a foreman at Bell City Manufacturing, a sheet metal factory that produced threshing machines. Anna stayed home to raise Marve and Mildred (Marve’s sister 4 years his senior).

Through middle school and high school, Marve loved sports. His favorite was baseball. He loved basketball as well, but never made the high school team because he was told he was too short. He also never attended any dances in high school; he says he had no one to take because he couldn’t find any girls his size – they were all taller! After graduating Horlick High School in Racine in June of 1936, he made his way to Crawfordsville, Indiana, where he enrolled as a freshman at Wabash College. To earn his room and board, he worked in the kitchen at the Kappa Sigma fraternity house, washing dishes and serving meals. He had no money to speak of and so couldn’t pay tuition, but the college allowed students to attend on credit, which they would have to pay back at the end of each year.

At the end of his first year, Marve returned to Racine to look for a job in order to pay back his tuition debt, but couldn’t find a job until August! Unfortunately, that meant he wasn’t able to earn enough to go back to Wabash for a second year, and had to stay in Racine to work and pay off his debt.

Marve was working as a mailman at the Case Tractor plant in 1938 when he met Florence Ellen Valentine, his future wife. He heard about her from a friend, and although he had never met her he heard she was about his size, so he asked her to a dance. They dated for several years before getting married in 1942, during which time Marve started an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker at Case’s. He never finished the apprenticeship, because shortly after his marriage in October he enlisted in the service. Like all young men, Marve knew he was likely to get drafted to serve in the war, so he decided to beat the draft to the punch by enlisting in the branch of his choice – the aviation cadets.

After over a year of training, Marve graduated from flight school in January of 1944 and quickly rose through the ranks until he became a First Lieutenant and was certified as an instructor in both twin-engine and instrument flying.. He taught other cadets how to fly in Lubbock, Texas for the duration of World War II. His favorite plane to fly was a twin-engine medium bomber, the B-25 Mitchell.

When he returned home to Racine in January 1946 after the war ended, Marve had planned on continuing to work at Case’s, but the union workers had gone on strike! The strike lasted fourteen months, so Marve had to find other work. He tried to start a tool and die business with two other men, but when that didn’t pan out he went to work in the tool room at Massey Harris in 1950. He continued to work in the tool and die business until his retirement in 1982.

Marve and Florence didn’t waste any time in starting a family after his return from the military. Their first child, Cheryl Mae Welfel was born in 1946, followed by James Roy Welfel (my dad) in 1950, and Tom Welfel in 1956. Tragically, Florence developed cancer, and two years after Tom’s birth she passed away. Marve’s mother helped to take care of the children while he was at work, but things were very hard. In those days, a single man didn’t raise children on his own, and so Marve looked for another wife. By 1960, he had married Karen Hjortness, a daughter of immigrants from Denmark. Karen had also grown up in Racine, and had recently divorced her first husband. She had one child from her first marriage, a son named Gary. In 1961, Marve and Karen had a son of their own, Jon Welfel. Marve worked hard to provide for the seven Welfels (well, six – Gary had his father’s last name) living under one roof on Sheraton Drive, and wasn’t able to spend as much time with his family as he might have liked. But the family never went hungry, even if they had to eat liver and onions every night of the week.

And then, the kids grew up. First Cherie left for college, attending one of the University of Wisconsin campuses. Jim followed soon after, attending the University of Wisconsin at La Crosse. After a year of teaching in Wisconsin, Cherie left to get masters from Purdue University in Indiana. Jim left to find a teaching job in New Jersey. Several years after graduating high school, Tom left as well, to work in a moving business in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. With Gary gone as well, seven became three. Jon, at least, stayed, and was able to visit regularly, but the other children visited at most once a year. “It sucked not seeing them,” Marve said, “but I supported them in whatever they wanted to do, and I knew there weren’t any opportunities here in Racine. But I sure wish they had lived closer.”

For a while, Marve and Karen took joy in having Jon, his wife, and three children close by – at least they could see one set of grandchildren grow up. “About once every two days,” explained Karen, “I would go over by Renee [Jon’s wife] and tell her, ‘I have to see my babies!’” But in time, Jon and Renee split up, and Jon’s two daughters grew up and moved to Colorado. And then there were none.

And then on May 10th of 2009, passing through Racine on my road trip across the country, I found myself in my grandparents’ living room, the only person to be with my grandmother on Mother’s Day.

I’ve told my grandfather’s story here only because I know it better, but my grandmother’s story carries with it the same feeling of working hard to raise a family, and then seeing them slowly leave. Her story, too, has reached a point of mourning and loneliness in her twilight hours. Neither she nor my grandfather is without any flaws, and they both certainly have butted plenty of heads throughout the years. But they are both loving people, even if they love imperfectly.

And yet there they were on Mother’s Day with naught but a few token cards and vases of flowers, a few short calls from some (not all) of their children, and I find myself hastily texting all my cousins, begging them to call Grandma to wish her a happy Mother’s Day (I think only one actually did). I tried to fill the void by cooking my grandparents breakfast, buying a flat of geraniums and planting them on my grandparents’ tiny balcony, and taking them out for an upscale lobster dinner; but it was only one holiday out of the several hundred that my grandparents have celebrated without many of their children or grandchildren in the 30 years since their children moved away.

The point isn’t to draw sympathy for the plight of my grandparents. After all, a few cards and flowers are more than some grandmothers receive, and my grandparents are fortunate to have any children that love them and call, even if their children live far away. They’re also incredibly fortunate to have grown up in a nation where the life expectancy is such that it’s not uncommon for a couple to live to be 90 (my grandfather’s age). Nor is the point to place blame on any of their children for having moved away or not making more of an effort to be in Racine for holidays. The point is that for the first time I was seeing Grandma and Grandpa as people instead of as grandparents. And I know that “seeing your parents as people for the first time” etc. is something that many, if not all, people go through, and probably earlier than at 25. But it wasn’t until the experiences I’d had over the past year and a half – organizing for Obama, organizing for Stand for Children, and traveling across the country – that I was able to see my grandparents in the light that I saw them at that moment.

I stepped back, away from the frame of viewing them as Grandpa Marve and Grandma Karen (a frame that rigid in its restriction of our ability to understand a person), and viewed them as Marve Welfel and Karen Hjortness, depersonalized and without judgment. I was able to see their occasional ignorant comments (at times even racist comments) for what they were – simply part of their way of thinking that is a product of the time and culture in which they grew up, rather than a moral blemish on their characters. This doesn’t make some of the things they said good or right, but rather unavoidable at this stage in their lives (believe me, I’ve tried at length in the past to shift their views).

Their occasional bickering and judgment was no longer idiotic and frustrating, but just a bump in the road that could be smoothed over by a polite interjection by me. Their judgment of my plans for the future and my outlook on life no longer bothered me. I didn’t take it personally, and I’m finally secure enough in who I am and in what I value that my grandparents’ uneasiness with some of my trajectories no longer provoked a gut reaction of needing to vigorously defend myself.

Because they are my grandparents, they of course still occupy a special place in my heart, but I no longer feel the need to revere them as infinitely wise nor do I become angry and frustrated when they fail to live up to that fantasy. They are just Marve and Karen, children of European immigrants whose parents moved to the United States in search of a better life. Even though Marve is now a grandfather whose progeny span America’s two coasts, he is still that short, shy boy who never asked any girls to a high school dance because they were too tall for him. And for that, I love him in a new and (I believe) more meaningful way.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Time Passed, Time Lost

Don’t expect too much when you go up there,” my uncle told me. “Grandpa’s changed a lot since the last time you saw him – he’s not the same.”

Uncle Tom made it sound dire, like Grandpa Marve was on his last legs. I mean, I know my grandparents are old, and it comes as no surprise when I get news of the latest health concern. I know that things have been especially difficult since my grandfather’s vision completely failed and my grandmother broke her leg. But this was different, the way Uncle Tom was speaking. He wasn’t very specific about exactly what had changed – I couldn’t tell if he was trying to say that Grandpa wasn’t as coherent, or energetic, or what. I didn’t really understand why my uncle was speaking this way – I mean, I had spoken with Grandpa on the phone about my coming to visit and he sounded coherent enough. I put my hope in the fact that our elders often try to protect us from disappointment or other uncomfortable situations by preparing us for the worst – maybe things weren’t as bad as Uncle Tom said.

I pull up to the apartment complex at Lincoln Village Drive in Racine Wisconsin around 2:30 PM. I call my Grandpa to let him know I’d arrived, and he sounds a little disoriented. But that could just be because I’m asking him for directions to a place he’d moved into long after he became blind – he has no visual memories to describe to me. I find the entrance to my grandparents’ wing of the complex, and open the outside door to step into an atrium. The inner door is locked, so I have to call up to the apartment to be let in. There’s some confusion with how to buzz me in, but an elderly man nearby is able to open the door for me.

“Who are you here to see?” he asks me. When I tell him Marve and Karen Welfel, the names don’t seem to register at first. He asks me to repeat their names several times, staring at me blankly. He finally recognizes the name, saying, “Oh, the blind guy. Yeah he’s upstairs on the second floor.” This is who my grandfather is to people – the blind guy?

I open the door to Apartment 803 and see my grandfather sitting at the kitchen table. I stop short, in shock. Who is this ghost of a man sitting where my father’s father should be sitting? Grandpa looks about a foot shorter and a hundred pounds lighter than when I last saw him. I barely recognize this tiny, frail person who looks like a light breeze could knock him over. Cautiously, I greet him and walk over to hug him gently, fearing that I might hurt him.

“How are you?” I ask.

“OK,” he replies.

“Just OK?”

“Well when you get to my age, OK is about as good as you can do. It’s no secret that I’m near the end, Scott. That’s what happens – life is a cycle, and my cycle is coming to a close.”

His words are matter-of-fact, as if he’s accepted it fully and is prepared for the inevitable. But his tone carries a haunting loneliness, as if he’s saying, “that’s all I do anymore, I just sit here and wait for the end.”

As we talk, he begins to vigorously rub his left eye, which is half closed and crusted over. I ask him if his eye is itching.

“It burns,” he replies. “Itches, burns, hurts like hell. My eyes are shot; I’m completely blind now, can’t see a darned thing. It’s no fun, living without being able to see, but that’s just the way it is these days.”

There’s a pause in the conversation – I’m not sure what to say. “Do you have drops for your eyes?”

“Yeah it makes them worse. The doctor says there’s nothing he can do for them.” Nothing to do but sit here in discomfort, waiting.

“Where’s Grandma,” I ask. He says she didn’t feel well, so she went to lie down. I guess she heard us talking, though, because the bedroom door opened and she slowly limped out. Her gait is hesitant, unbalanced, and my mind flashes back to a home video of me as a toddler, waking up from a nap and awkwardly walking down the stairs and then toward the camera. I greet her, and she suggests we sit in the living room, rather than the kitchen (the living room is attached to the kitchen, but has about ten square feet more space and slightly comfier chairs.) I consent, but I excuse myself to use the restroom first (I’ve been on the road for several hours).

As I look at myself in the mirror, my eyes well up, and I clench them shut to try to stop the tears from coming. But my lip starts trembling, and the tears come. I’m overcome with grief, and remorse, and the weight of the idea of living nearly a century.

I didn’t expect to feel like this. For the past several weeks, when describing to others the remaining destinations along my road trip, I would throw in a lighthearted, matter-of-fact comment about how my Grandma and Grandpa were at the end of their lives and I figured it would be good to see them one last time. I had talked about it void of any emotions, not because I was repressing them, but because at the time I really didn’t feel strongly when thinking about my grandparents’ condition. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I felt concerned, or scared for their health, or sad at the thought of them passing.

It’s not that I didn’t like them – I have many fond memories of summers spent in Racine, fishing and boating on the lake. I always looked forward to seeing Grandma and Grandpa growing up. But after a certain age, our visits to Wisconsin became less and less frequent, and many years would go by before I would see them again. It was only natural that our relationship grew more distant, and I felt less strongly for them than for my grandparents in New Jersey, right?

And then of course there was my grandmother’s pointed tongue and stubbornness that made many conversations unpleasant. Alcohol would file her tongue even sharper and loosen it to unleash a guilt trip or harsh criticism that brought out her entrenched prejudices. That in addition to her old fashioned sense that with age comes entitlement (“I’ll have some peas” to announce her culinary demand at the kitchen table), and it got to the point where I didn’t miss seeing her and Grandpa more frequently and frankly felt pretty emotionally detached to their situation.

And now it’s like all those years of lost emotional connection are flooding back at once. What have I missed, waiting until now to reach out to my father’s father? I don’t want to sit around and mourn with him about how the quality of his life has deteriorated and how he’s close to the end. I want to get to know him as a person, rather than the simple way in which a child knows a grandfather. I want to hear about his life, share stories, learn from his perspectives on things – perspectives that were forged in an era I have little ability to grasp. I want to laugh, and reflect, and look forward, and celebrate. Here is a man who has created a family, who sits as the solitary link, the linchpin of us all; in the twilight of his days, after retiring from the many years of hard labor that earned this family’s sustenance, he should be able to sit back and watch his beautiful family grow, take joy in that which he has created.

But he can’t watch. Because he can’t see.

But he can hear, and he can talk. And so we’ll sit, and talk. And sit, and talk. And I will savor every minute, coherent or not. Even with all I’ve missed, at least I have this moment with him. At least I won’t miss this.