Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Quizás Me Equivoqué

Read this post in English

No hay un dicho igual en español, pero en inglés yo diría que quizás hablé demasiado pronto cuando dije ayer que todo estaba tranquilo. Al principio, me parecía que sí todo estaba tranquilo, porque no había violencia, el Congreso Nacional todavia tenía poder sobre las Fuerzas Armadas, y Roberto Micheletti ha asumado el cargo de Presidente. Pero ahora me temo que el domingo solo fue el comienzo.

Desde la mañana de ayer, ha habido muchas manifestaciones y también varias amenzas por distintos políticos. Hoy por la mañana se aglomeró un muchedumbre en Tegucigalpa en la plaza cívica Francisco Morazán. Cuando encendí el televisor, un general de las Fuerzas Armadas daba un discurso a la multitudinaria concentración - era el jefe del Estado Mayor Conjunto Romeo Váquez Velásquez. Gen. Vásquez gritaba palabras patrióticas a los 15,000 manifestantes que aclamaban con emoción. Todos meneaban banderas hondureñas o llevaban camisas de los colores nacionales para demostrar su respaldo al gobierno nuevo. Me alegré de ver que no intentaban en hacer daño a los funcionarios, pero ¿por qué aclamaban al jefe de las Fuerzas Armadas? Y lo que es más, cuando el Presidente Micheletti salió para pronunciar un discurso, la primera cosa que hizo fue celebrar las acciones de los militares. "Felicitamos a los héroes de esta jornada: nuestro ejército hondureño", dijo él, lo que fue recibido con muchos aplausos.

Me confundí, porque pensaba que el papel que desempeñó el ejército fue más pequeño. ¿Se empieza a rendir culto al Gen. Vásquez? No tengo miedo de un gobierno nuevo; lo que me temo es un gobierno militar. Lo más peligroso es si el ejército esté sobre el Congreso Nacional y el Presidente. Micheletti debe sea el mandatario, no Gen. Vásquez. Micheletti dijo algo más que me asusta. Al parecer, Hugo Chavez tenía planes de venir a Honduras (aunque ya ha decido que no), y la mayoría de los hondureños lo odían. Micheletti dijo a Chavez, "Señor en este país de las cinco estrellas de la bandera azul, somos 7 millones y medio de soldados." Espero que no sea la verdad.

Esa manifestación no era la única hoy; también había protestas contra el gobierno nuevo. Habían enfrentamientos entre estudiantes protestantes y las fuerzas militares protegiendo la sede del Presidente Micheletti. Solo había veinticinco heridos, pero los conflictos causaron que los empresarios cerraron las empresas. Además, hay huelgas de muchos trabajadores en el país entero, incluso los profesores. No hay paso de Olancho (donde estoy) a Tegucigalpa, y por eso mi amiga tenía problemas para llegar a Tegucigalpa esta mañana. Su vuelo fue hoy, pero no estoy seguro si pudo subir al avion.

También me preocupo por lo que dijeron La Organización de las Naciones Unidas, que no reconocen al gobierno nuevo. Exigieron que el gobierno hondureño restituya al cargo de mandatorio a Manuel Zelaya. Zelaya está en los Estados Unidos para una reunión extraordinaria de la Organización de los Estados Americanos, y afirmó que las Fuerzas Armadas le acatará cuando regrese. Pero el Fiscal General del Estado de Honduras giró una orden de captura internacional contra Zelaya. Dijo que si regrese Zelaya, va a meterle preso.

Aquí, todavía todo me parece tranquilo, pero Oscar me llamó para decir me que no saliera de la casa. Dijo algo de militares en la calle pero no los vi. Ahorita estoy al lado de mi casa y no salí por si acaso, pero realmente no sé si está peligroso or no. También hay toque de queda esta noche, entonces me tengo que ir, pero escribiré más mañana.

Monday, June 29, 2009

¿Golpe de Estado?

Traducirla en español

If this is what a golpe de estado (a coup d'état) is like, I don't really see what all the fuss is about. Frankly, what transpired yesterday in Honduras couldn't have been much more peaceful. Not a single shot was fired, nor was anyone killed (although there were rumors for quite some time that the mother of now ex-president Manuel Zelaya had a heart attack when she was kidnapped). I did see some soldiers here in Jutilcalpa - about ten walking down a street in the morning and an army truck pass by my street in the evening, but there was no trouble at all. Honestly, it could have been a lot worse.

And it certainly seemed like it was going to be worse when I first woke up. At about 7AM Sunday morning, I passed by my landlord's brother on the way to the bathroom, who informed me of the coup. "It's really bad," he said. "The military kidnapped the president and his family, and they've cut out all electricity to prevent any new signals from reaching countries outside of Honduras. We have no power, and we can't make calls to the U.S. The scary part is that Hugo Chavez pledged support for President Zelaya ("Mel"), and said he would send Venezuelan troops if Mel needed help." The next person I spoke with informed me that Venezuelan troops and Nicaraguan troops had already arrived in Guatemala and were at the Honduran Border, preparing to enter. "No, no, they're in Nicaragua," my friend Ricardo corrected me. "And there have already been skirmishes on the border." His daugther argued that we don't really know for sure because "they're" not letting us hear any news (the infamous "they") "It's a conspiracy!" she exclaimed.

Thus is the nature of trying to parse through what the hell is happening in Honduras. (Though I'm not sure it's any different than in the U.S. where you also get a dozen different versions of the story depending on who you talk to). It turned out by the end of the day that there was no organizing of Nicaraguan or Venezuelan forces, nor had their been any skirmishes. Moreover, The lapse in electricity could have been attributed to normal everyday occurences (it is not uncommon to lose power here in Juticalpa), rather than a conspiracy to prevent news from getting out. I had no problem using my cell phone to call the U.S. yesterday. But such is human nature - we love to over-dramaticize to the utmost extreme.

The route by which we arrived at the present state is not entirely clear to me for several reasons: 1) It has a lot to do with the cuarta urna (a referendum), which nobody seems to understand, and 2) the two major newspapers seem to be very partisan and polar opposites of each other (one leaning to the left and in support of the ex-President, the other in opposition of Mel and in support of the coup), and very little of what people talk about on the street seems to correspond with what I read in the papers (admittedly, I've only just begun reading the newspapers and neither my comprehension of the papers nor of conversations is 100% yet). But I will try my best to recreate my understanding of what transpired.

It seems that everything can be traced back to the Cuarta Urna, which was a referendum that ex-President Manuel Zelaya proposed, and would have been voted on yesterday had the coup not taken place. When I first started hearing about the Cuarta Urna, all anybody said about it was that Mel was trying to change the constitution to allow the president to continue for more than one term. People were describing it as a vote for "yes, the president should be allowed more than one term," or "no, he should not." All the people who describe the cuarta urna in this matter were diametrically opposed to it, and thought it was a violation of the consititution in an attempt by Mel to become a dictator.

Upon talking with some people who were in favor of it, it seemed that there were more components to the Cuarta Urna than just this one questions - there were components that would increase the ability for the departments within Honduras to self-govern, and there were components to help alleviate poverty. Still, tons of people labeled the referendum "illegal" and "unconstitutional." I didn't really understand why people thought this, even if the referendum were only about whether or not the president should be allowed to run for more than one term. After all, Mel wasn't changing the constitution - he was putting up a referendum to allow the people to decide whether they wanted to change the constitution. And if the majority of people were opposed to it, what were they afraid of? If they all voted "no" the referendum would fail. Plus, Mel is so unpopular that it seems virtually impossible that he would be reelected even if the referendum did pass. But when I asked my friends who opposed the Cuarta Urna if they were going to vote against it, they said they weren't going to vote. They gave various reasons; some said voting was dangerous while others said they were pissed the referendum was even taking place and were boycotting voting for that reason.

From what I've subsuquently read about the Cuarta Urna, it seems that it was more of a pole than anything else. The pole would have asked Hondurans if they wanted to have a measure placed on the ballot in November to vote on whether or not they wanted the creating of a Consitutional Assembly. Should Sunday's pole and the subsuquent ballot measure in November succeeded, then the Consititutional Assembly would have had the option of modifying the consitution to allow the President to run for more than one term. All in all, this seems to me to be a very long, drawn-out, multi-step, democratic process. I don't know if the process contradicts anything in Honduras's constitution, but on the surface at least it looked benign. Yet virtually every organization in Honduras labeled the pole as illegal and unconstitutional.

Last week, the Honduran Supreme Court ruled the Cuarta Urna illegal, and demanded that it not be carried out. General Romeo Vásquez, head of the Honduran Armed Forces, said the military would see to it that the Court's ruling would be carried out, and Mel responded by removing him from his post on Tuesday. This was subsuquently followed by a Supreme Court ruling on Friday to reinstate General Vásquez and open an investigative committee to look at President Zelaya´s actions. Friday's paper hailed both the military and the President of Congress Roberto Micheletti for acting to restore order while avoiding a golpe de estado, while at the same time portending an ominous future for Mel. In fact, as I sat here this morning reading Friday's paper it seems the paper was all but describing the certainty of a coup.

Sunday morning, Mel was captured and deported to Costa Rica. Everyone called it a Golpe de Estado, but was it? When we got power back, CNN en español featured a debate on this very topic. The argument to the contrary sounded pretty reasonable: there had been a judicial order to deport Mel, and the military followed the judicial order. The military at no point had control over the government; they simply emptied the post of president so that the National Congress could go about the legitimate process of choosing a new president. The Honduran Consititution says that said in the absence of the president, the President of Congress would become president. Congress voted nearly unanimously to remove Mel from the office of President, and then voted to appoint Roberto Micheletti as the new president. Again, I don't know what the Honduran Constitution says about impeaching a president, but at least on the surface it appears that there were some democratic processes followed (of course I don't know if they were legitimate processes).

So we have a new president, a still-functioning government that never gave up power to the military, and no signs of the violence or oppression that is normally associated with coups. The only sign that anything is different is that the new president has requested a curfew (un toque de queda) of 9PM for last night and tonight. So while repeating the disclaimer that I don't have much confidence in my ability to grasp what is going on, for the moment I'm still of the opinion that if this is what a coup is like they're not so bad after all (this is obviously tongue in cheek). ¡Vamos a ver!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Friday, June 5, 2009

Think Outside the Cone

The following conversation actually happened (although in Spanish, of course):

Meg left school around 10am today so we could get an early start up to Catacamas, the next major town along the "highway." We were heading up to hang out with Meg's peace corp friends and go to the caves of Talgua the following day. We made pretty good time going up there, and after hanging out in Jarryd's apartment for a bit, we headed to the part to get a snack.

There's a little snack bar that serves soda, ice cream, and baleadas, and Meg was excited to order a nevada - basically an ice cream soda. Meg wanted mango ice cream with a Fresca for the soda. Little did she know what a problem that would be.

"Is that mango?" Meg asked, pointing to a tub of orange colored ice-cream.

"Yes," replied the employee.

"Great. Can I please have an ice cream soda with Mango ice cream and Fresca?"

"No, we don't have that."

"Oh, ok, you're out of Fresca? Can I have mango with Sprite, then!?"

"No, it's that for ice cream sodas, the choices are Vanilla and Coke, Orange and Sprite, Lemon and Sprite, or Strawberry and Banana soda," the woman behind the counter said. She was pointing to the pictures on the overhead graphic menu where there were four types of ice-cream sodas, displayed exactly as she had described them.

Meg paused for a moment, confused, then asked, "So you don't have Fresca?"

"We have Fresca."

"So is there a special way that you make the ice-cream soda?"

"We put the ice cream in the cup and give you the bottle of soda to pour over the ice cream."

"And you have Fresca, and you have mango ice cream?"

"Yes."

"So can I please have an ice cream soda with mango and Fresca?"

"But ice cream sodas only come in Vanilla with Coke, Orange with Sprite, Lemon with Sprite, or Strawberry with Banana soda."

Pause

"Ok...can I please have a cup with mango ice cream in it and a Fresca on the side?"

"You don´t want a cone for the ice-cream?"

"No thank you, a cup is fine. How much will that cost?"

"Let's see. Well ice cream in a cup is an unusual order, but you're sort of ordering a similar thing to an ice cream soda, so I'll just charge you the same amount as an ice-cream soda."

Meg paid the woman, thanked her, and walked over to the table to pour the Fresca over her mango ice cream and enjoy her hard-earned victory.

I opted to settle for Orange ice cream and Sprite.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

El Hogar de Niños

Today was the second time I went with Meg to the orphanage here in Juticalpa. Meg has been volunteering there all year, and the kids absolutely love here there. The orphanage is run by a catholic organization, and the location also houses a convent of nuns, a nursing home, a church, and a bakery whose proceeds are used to support the convent, orphanage, and nursing home. There are about 25 kids in all - 11 boys and 14 girls. It's amazing how joyful the kids seem to be, considering that they're not living with their parents. They dote on Meg, and they seemed excited to meet me as well.

Part of my idea in coming to Honduras was to find a couple of volunteer opportunities, and I really would like to try to continue some of the work that Meg has been doing at the orphanage. I spoke with Sister Isabel today, and I'm going to come in next Monday to spend most of thge day at the orphange to try to get a sense of the kids' schedule in case I want to try to organze some structured activites. Even just being at the orphanage for one day reminded me how much I love them. They're the most amazing, complex, surprising, wonderful little bundles of trouble in the world, and I learn something new from them every day. I'm very grateful to Meg for introducing me to the orphanage, and I'm super excited to start spending some time there every day.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

The Dirty Dirty

After a while you stop noticing the layer of grime that perpetually covers your skin, and it just becomes an accepted fact of life in Honduras. The fact that we don´t have water, while not the root cause of my dirtiness, certainly does't help. But the impossibiity of becoming clean is really caused by two factors: dust and heat.

Dust is simply a ubiquitous entity here in Juticalpa - like I said, less than half the roads are paved. When a car drives by on a dirt road, it kicks up dust like a sand storm. The dust combnes with the unfiltered, acrid fumes of the cars (which I can´t imagine are often brought in for tune-ups, judging by the way they sound and smell), to create a thick, hazy, suffocating fot that covers everything in town. and I mean everything. Even if you go into an upscale Pulperia, you'll find most products inside covered with a layer of dust such that the store employees who are hired to help customers find what they're looking for are also paid to carry around a rag and wipe dust off packages before handing them to customers.

What makes the dust worse, though, is that the intense heat of the Honduran sun makes you sweat constantly so the dust sticks to your skin the second it hits you, and it stays. Everytime I go to wipe the sweat off my forehead, I leave behind a brown streak of dirt on my shirt.

All this is compounded by the fact that we don't have water. In Juti, people either get their water from wells that are connected to their faucet system, or their houses are connected to the municipal water system. While most well systems have continued to provide water, the municipal system stopped providing awter a week before I came, and still is not working. Our apartment, of course, is connected to the municipal system, and so we are waterless. That means no showers to wash off tat layer of grime from your skin (I've only taken one shower since I arrived). That also means you can't flush the toilet unless you fill the back unit with water from some other source. Which means you don't flush everytime you use the toilet. Fortunately, you get used it it and you make do, but that doesn't make it any less gross.

To be able to have water for things like flushing the toilet when the faucets are't working, we have a pila, which is a tiled rectangular basin to store water on our patio and is filled by rainwater and/or by tap water. It probably has the capacity to hold around 40 or so gallons, but it has less than 10 at the moment so we have to be conservative about how often we flush the toilet.

Not having tap water also makes simple things like wiping off the counter a luxury. If theres a spill, we often don't have water to wipe it up right away, which leads to our cohabiting with many tiny six-legged roomates. Fortunately the ants in our house are so tiny they´re not really bothersome, and they're in pretty much everyone's house anyway. Just another fact of life that you don't pay very much attention to.

It's amazing hou in spite of such a big problem like not having water, life goes on as normal. There's no panic, no public outrage at the government, no media coverage of protests in the streets. People just make do by showering at neighbors' houses who have wells, buying water in 5 gallon jugs (cost = 30 lempiras or about $1.50 US), or simply going without showering for a while. It's a nice change to see people so relaxed, able to adapt to different and often inconvenient situations.

¡Viva La Vida Olachana!

Monday, June 1, 2009

Coca, Hielo, y Ron

That was Fernando's answer to the question, "If you were on a desert island and could only bring 3 things, what would they be?" Coca-cola, ice, and rum.

The name of the game was "Three Questions," and it was similar to "21 Questions," except you're not trying to solve anything and you don't have to ask yes or no questions. Actually it wasn't much of a game at all - pretty much you just pick a person and ask them a question until you've asked three questions (but you don't have to ask them of the same person). Somtimes the questions were interest6ing or funny, but just as often not. It basically amounted us sitting around and bullshitting.

To the onlooker, it might have appered that the only source of a "party" was the rum - the holy grail of such gatherings here. And although as Fernando acknowledged, it is an integral part of such gatherings (except for me, Meg, Shige, and Yumi), the conversation is much more essential. That's why we get together, just to sit around and enjoy each other's company.

This would prove to be the standard nightly routine for the next few weeks - hanging out with Debbie, the fearsome foursome, and Meg, just shooting the breeze. Often we were joined by other teachers as well, and occasionaly by Oscar's brother Ricardo and his wife Daña. We talk about music, fútbol, culture, Honduran dialect (Caliche), women, government, everything. Sometimes, like tonight, we play games like Two Truths and a Lie or riddle games, but we often just talk. And honestly, I can´t think of anything I'd rather do.